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First ascent of this protectionless slab – can deck from crux at 70 feet. Thin slab climbing approx. 5.10d/5.11a. The locals fled when they saw what I was doing – didn’t want to see a crazy Brit making strawberry jam on the floor. Who needs gear anyway? pffffftttt Name means “Half Man, Half Biscuit”
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Wow! looks like there are only tiny creases to balance off of. How’s the texture of the rock?
watched ‘Committed’ over the weekend. AMAZING stuff. looks like British climbers have a different attitude and approach to the idea of protection. If you are confident, why spend the time placing gear? I suppose it’s also a function of many of the grit-stones (at least the one in the film) being protection-less. I kept wondering though, why do they even bother placing a single nut at 15 feet off the ground?!