I have a problem with two things: vocabulary and advice.

Vocabulary: a dead point is a type of dyno. A dynamic move is a dyno (dyno is a shortened form of dynamic). There are differing degrees (or flavors) of dynos, and a dead point is one of them. The problem is when people only think a dyno is when there is no contact between the wall and the person.

Advice: the best way to learn is NOT to watch others climb, but to tape yourself climb and have EXPERIENCED climbers critique you; you should also critique yourself when you are watching the tape.

I agree that watching yourself climb is a great way to improve technique, but that is much harder to do then watching other climbers. Having spent a majority of the last 5 years watching others climb, I cannot overestimate how much it has helped my technique, and it’s super easy to do!

Make it a point to watch others on routes that you are familiar with, so you can make a direct comparison (compensating for height, etc.)

I think one of the most important techniques to work on is footwork. It is frequently overlooked by novices and intermediates alike and often takes a back seat to strength and other aspects of training. Many routes and problems that may seem like they require enormous amounts of strength and power can be climbed with less energy by using good footwork…and conserving energy is key.

Back when I climbed at Fitplex I found the best overall training method was to traverse the entire wall back and forth using only footchips for foot holds while using progressively smaller hand holds. While doing this I made sure to use an “open handed” grip as much as possible. Once you can do 3 to 4 back and forths vary it up by 1)cutting down on the size of hand holds or 2) Eliminating some foot chips or 3)traversing in layback style with your back leading first or 4) Stepping through or crossing hands each time…you get the idea. Hope this helps.

Never underestimate good footwork! MDUB has a good method for improving it—traversing on footchips—but it is a method that beginners can’t quite handle and most intermediate climbers don’t enjoy. Try telling them that it is good for them and all they can think about is “When does this lesson end?”! Their feet (and shoes) can’t yet handle the little chips, and they don’t have the endurance to traverse for very long.

Beginners should just do this on the biggest/best holds and just try to keep going. You’re going to need to build up your endurance for the next steps!

Another method for beginners that I suggest is crossing the arms during a traverse. This complicates your body position and balance and creates problems that you then need to solve. Solve each problem by doing ANYTHING you want with your feet. Eventually you should find footholds (large or small) that make your situation feel less dire, and you move forward to the next crossed-arm problem. In doing this you are experimenting with body positions and learning something thru trial and error.

Yeah, beginners can use smaller hand holds for feet instead of foot chips. Then work your way down to foot chips. Just keep hacking away at the size of your foot holds as you improve. Next up….One arm traversing!!!

I seriously agree that footwork is a must for beginners. I’ve personally noticed that my climbing technique was greatly improved when my footwork improved, which led, overall, to me being able to crank through harder sections, and to help with keeping away the pump.

After the footwork, one can move onto using footholds for handholds! Although I think this only works for me because I have small hands.