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Ls_normal ZAC Message Send private message
on Jan 10, 2008 - 4:12pm

La Sportiva

I am a La Sportiva Katana wearer. I’ve bought this shoe two times with great success. I would like to branch out from this shoe. Has anyone had good success with other shoes in the La Sportiva line? I thought about the testarossa, but they’re just so damn ugly and I remember the toe box being weird. The Katana seems to be a good all around shoe, but it would be nice to have something more extreme or specific to harder overhanging problems. Suggestions for slab are appreciated too. Anything outside the Sportiva brand is fine. A note, my foot is too long and skinny to wear 5-ten or any other wide body shoe.

14 Comment(s)
Jan 10, 2008 - 6:38pm

I really enjoyed my La Sportiva Venoms. They were pretty aggressive, probably a good addition to your shoe stable as an alternative to the Katanas. The only issue I had (which has already been discussed here somewhere) is that they didn’t last very long. But if you’re splitting time between the Katanas and the Venoms, I don’t see that being as much of a problem.

The one other thing you should know is that the Venom is built on the same last as the Testarossa, so if you didn’t like the fit of the Rossa, you may not like the fit of the Venom.

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Jan 10, 2008 - 7:30pm

I think the Viper is actually a better Katana. It’s built with the same last, but only flatter (so it’s not as aggressive). Personally, I like the ‘leather’ better as it’s more elastic (easier to take off and put on), and less smelly :-) I also think the fit is better. I have a small heel, and the viper hugs it very well.

The bad thing? The rand and rubber doesn’t last very long. After 2 months of use, my left big toe was breathing clean air.

miguel is an admin of Place_holder_tiny Wigglyville
Ls_small ZAC
Jan 10, 2008 - 7:42pm

I’ve tried the venom at VE before. They allow you to test there shoes before you purchase. The rubber was uber-soft, I can see how they may wear quick. I don’t know about the viper. Never tried it on though. Does it stay tight? I worry about slippers getting loose and not being able to do anything about it. Oh I didn’t even realize the Venom is a slipper too. Any thoughts on the Miura? Are there any other shoe companies that play to the slender foot? Sportiva is a great brand, high quality, but pricey. It’s hard to find deals on climbing shoes unless you’re on the inside.

Jan 10, 2008 - 8:09pm

I had the same concern about slippers, but if you definitely get them really tight, you shouldn’t have a problem. They stretch, but not THAT much. Mine stretched only enough that getting them on wasn’t an ordeal… they never got close to loose.

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Jan 10, 2008 - 9:06pm

my viper is snug as hell. not an issue at all.

miguel is an admin of Place_holder_tiny Wigglyville
Las_vegas_105_small MAX
Jan 11, 2008 - 4:23am

Check the Evolv predators. I’ve been looking into a lot of their shoes for myself, and I think them or the Pontas’ look like pretty solid shoes. Not La Sportiva, but hey there’s a lot out there manfrotto

Img_0139_small tom
Jan 11, 2008 - 6:05am comment was edited onJan 12, 2008 - 8:38pm

Zac, like I said in the gym, the Testarossa is The Spanish Inquisition of an agro climbing shoe. Give it another try. The first time you put your foot in one you were not expecting The Spanish Inquisition! I think you can handle it now.

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Jan 11, 2008 - 9:04am

Have you ever try the nu one, “solution”? I think it will be good.

Jan 12, 2008 - 3:27am

I do enjoy the testarossas quite a bit. Its weird having my feet stay on the wall and being able to use technique even when I don’t want to. I have boxy feet that don’t play so nice with La Sportiva’s skinny feet shoes, but I still find them to be wearable.

Jan 16, 2008 - 3:17pm

I’ve only had the lowest end sportivas, cliffs maybe?. They don’t fit my feet with their EU sizing, but those solutions do look nice.

Maybe these?

Jan 16, 2008 - 5:59pm

LOVE my Katana!!!! Don’t think I can wear any other shoe. Once you go Katana you never go back! Now they just need to make more colors…at least for the women’s line.

Jan 16, 2008 - 6:13pm

I do like my Miura’s a lot. I’m on my second pair and I couldn’t ask for more, except maybe the V10’s which look like they mean business. The Miura’s are relatively comfortable. They stretch a little after you wear them a while. The rubber wear has been a bit of an issue but that could be due to my sloppy footwork (yes sometimes I use my feet) and my love/fascination with the smear. Dan’s choice maybe the best option at FP, though.

Jan 17, 2008 - 12:11am comment was edited onJan 17, 2008 - 4:40pm

In the Sportiva line up the Solution is going to be your most aggro shoe (if you don’t dig the Testarossa). For face climbing the Miura is probably the best in the line up, giving you solid smearing ability with the bonus of being good for crack climbing and great for edging.

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Img_0139_small tom
Jan 25, 2008 - 8:52pm

I looked at the Solution yesterday at Moosejaw. It’s really built for bouldering! Great edges! They didn’t have mu size so they ordered three pairs in my size range. Nice guys! I’m pretty certain I’m going to buy them. I told them that they should stock up. Go visit them and see what you think!

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
 
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