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Img_0139_normal tom Message Send private message
on Apr 06, 2008 - 9:56pm

New 10a on Rope #7

One of the Friday Intermediate climbers found a challenging set of holds to call a route on rope 7. The route required the climber to be a little tall—something that was easily addressed later. The route isn’t officially rated, but seems to be falling in around 5.9+/5.10a. There are some very cool bouldery moves on it. And I think we’ve got it worked out so medium height people can get on it.

It’s plain yellow tape. Something like 12 holds.

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
6 Comment(s)
Apr 07, 2008 - 1:28pm

Its a pretty sick route. Way to go mike!!

Apr 07, 2008 - 5:11pm

Thanks! I think we should call it Heel Hook Heaven, or HHH.

Apr 07, 2008 - 7:13pm

You can’t give the tricks away

Apr 07, 2008 - 11:19pm

It is a nice route! If you decide to hook or not to hook, I think after climbing it, you’d be ‘hooked” on it! It’s fun and has some definite challenges. I think it now adjusted for shorter climbers, but still not sure if it’s 5.9+ or 5.10a. Let’s get some more people on it and see the feedback!

Toddeagle1 is a staff member of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Apr 09, 2008 - 5:02pm

I worked on this route for a while last night and really enjoyed it. After getting the most of it wired except the last move i can say that it definitely its a fun and interesting route. I enjoyed it more and more as i went along. I hope to send it clean tomorrow. Good job Mike. I would give it a 5.9 or 5.9+ rating.

Img_0139_small tom
Apr 10, 2008 - 1:09pm

I’m glad to hear that one climber’s working of the route resulted in their sense that the route is not as hard as it first seemed. That’s a nice feeling to come away with. I originally felt the route was 5.9ish, not 5.10anything, but several first effort by good climbers led me to push it to 10a. Yaniv also pointed out the some of the designed footwork doesn’t come off as naturally for slightly shorter people. I think that’s right. Slightly shorter people will have to work a little harder to make these “designed” moves work for them.

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
 
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