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FFC Climbers

 
2_normal MDUB Message Send private message
on Mar 17, 2008 - 6:47pm

Rope 1; 5.10 C+ variation

Stopped in last Saturday to say hi and climb a bit. Tom put me on some fun routes. I would suggest trying the 5.10C on wall 1 with a bit of a variation. Where you would usually use “Court 1” try not using any part of court 1 (the black railing and the number 1 on the wall are off). A bit of a stretch and balancy, but fun nonetheless. Good routes though Tom.

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
6 Comment(s)
Img_0139_small tom
Mar 17, 2008 - 8:03pm

MDUB’s (Mike) variation is going to favor longer-legged climbers. Mike says he has short legs and long arms. Sounds like me. But Mike can nail his variation finish while I feel trapped in a splits-like predicament with no spring to start the lift. Understand, he’s suggestion a 12”-18” jump finish off two extremely widely-spaced footholds with nothing but junk and t-nut holes for handholds. “10c+”, ha!

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Mar 17, 2008 - 8:45pm

How about an 11a ??? Those little fern leaf natural fossils in the wall are BOMBER! :)

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Mar 17, 2008 - 8:52pm

That’s the pink on silver tape right? Are we talking about off-routing the entire black wall at the top? Or just the ledge and “1”? From Tom’s description it sounds like the former. I can picture the move and it seems nice and dicey… Have to try it sometime.

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Img_0139_small tom
Mar 18, 2008 - 12:36am

Yeah, Pete, Mike wants you to do a no-black-wall-action finish! To practice, you should stand on the ground and do the splits as widely as you can and then try jumping straight up. When you can get 12” off the ground you are getting close!

Mike must have an extra muscle in his groin.

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Mar 18, 2008 - 2:32am

Extra what? TMI Tom, TMI.

And I agree, those fern leaves ARE bomber.

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Mar 18, 2008 - 3:24am

Yeah Tom, I think that was one of the first things you learned in health class, guys have an extra muscle in their groin….. made specially for reachy dynos. I guess that’s what the kids are calling it now days, right? What???

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
 
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