The rope’s 5.10 is not sub rated (a, b, c or d). I’m thinking “b”, but I need to see what happens on it this week. I think it’s a pretty good route. It may not have the artistry of a 5-star Ron Paul route, but there is a bit of the scrappiness that you’ve come to expect in a Mike Huckabee creation.

Lots of good climbers lined up to climb this 5.10 on Monday. Huchabee made a brief appearance and said he needed to toughen up a soft spot on the route before anyone got on it, but that the rating should hold as was.

Was there a bookshelf shaped like a cross behind him? And when will JMC show up to set some nastyhard boulder problems? I hear he can endure a lot of pain… hmmm… so maybe he’s more of a crack climber.

Looking forward to checking out rope 2 tomorrow night.

Since you asked for my 2¢ …

I thought the rope #2 5.10_ should be an ‘a’ or ‘b’ at the very most. I managed to get up it on the first shot with just the beta you told me while we were chatting about the hold you replaced. Though, as Doug pointed out right after, I seem to be more flexible than the average bear and didn’t take much notice to the “high-step” at the end.

Really enjoyed the route, so thanks.

I agree with Dave, definitely a cool route. I made the last move, but it was a little harder step up than for Dave! I think there are 5.9+ routes that are as hard or harder at FP. (at least for me)

I’d say 5.10a max.

Why are you telling me? heh

He he… dork.

I thought it was a 10b, but apparently I climbed the bottom wrong (because I was blind)... and the top wrong (because I cheated with length)... and didn’t use “Tom’s ideal beta” on the middle… so basically I climbed the whole thing wrong. So with my beta, it goes at 5.10b :) But the consensus was 5.10a, so I think it’s staying at that.

Also the black route on rope 5 has been upgraded from 10c to 10d, which should have happened a while ago as it’s a strong route. Megan put in an impressive attempt on it last night, and was shut down only by a quite reachy traverse move near the top. “Gurls of Burl” indeed. Well done.

Glad rope5-10c was upgraded, it was messing with my head since I couldn’t even boulder the start. “Is there a hold missing??” Nope, apparently you have to grow a beard, grow a pair, and go get it…

Rope 5 – 10c is a great route. Many power moves, dead-points…if only I knew that green hold “behind” that corner was on…hehe

Actually Dave, depending on when you got on it, that 10c (now d) was missing a piece of tape at the bottom (it tripped up Miguel too). The additional foothold has now been retaped.

oh, yeah, without that foothold, it’d be like a 11b maybe? dunno, couldn’t do it without that hold

Note 1: Rope #2/5.10a… routesetter has noted on the board that “outer walls are off”

Note 2: Rope #5/5.10d… (once you find the final hold around the left side the last move is too easy. Since the route is entering the classic Guide Book of FFC Routes that last move may need to be messed with. (Kudos to max for his semi-flash lead of the route—though technically his draw’s rope gate was turn the wrong way at the second bolt!)

Oy. I’ll try and get on this (#5) tonight hopefully before tom starts tinkering with holds. :) Thanks for the heads up about the hold, but no doubt it will still be challenging.

Is there only one hold around the arete (kind of hard to tell since rope 7 has black tape on it as well)?

I’ll be in tonight too Dave. But I’ll probably be gone before your usual arrival time of, what, 9:30? :) I’ll give you a belay if I see you though.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time on Wall 2 last night although i didn’t send the 5.9 clean yet and haven’t gotten past the Boss on the 5.10. All the routes are nice and fun though. Props to all the routesetters.

One of the routesetters got carried away and accidentally stripped the rope 5 classic 10d! Oy!!

The holds were all dug out of the dirty hold bucket and remounted, but the tape was not replaced—yet.

The route will stay up for a while. I’m also going to take Max’s suggestion and use rope 5 to set a much harder route. It will be a wicked variation of the 10d.

REDPOINTERS NOTE #1: THE 5.10A ON ROPE #2 IS BACK TO 5.10B.

REDPOINT FLASHERS NOTE: YOU ARE ALL GETTING BETTER FASTER THAN YOU THINK!

REDPOINT NON-FLASHERS NOTE: DON’T FEEL BAD—THIS THING IS HARDER THEN 10A!

REDPOINTERS NOTE #2: THE 5.10A ON ROPE #1 (WITH IT’S CHANGED HOLDS) IS HARDER THAN THE ORIGINAL VERSION, AND SO THE RATING IS RESET TO 5.10B. REJOICE!

I am happy for my nut-size ego that this is back to a 5.10b…but just out of curiosity, what made it change from a 10b to 10a in the first place? or i mean, what made it change back to a 10b? ok i just confused myself…been coding too much.

I watched climbers work it. It seemed climbers were finding it harder than most 10a routes. Todd and I climbed it. He can climb 10a, and he is getting stronger, but he was not able to handle this one with several tries and beta. I got on it, and it just isn’t easy! It was set to be something of a grappler’s feast, and it lives up to that. All said, it requires a pretty good game to send.

the 10b is a great slab route. requires good crimping and balance to send. I like the move to get up over to the sloper :-)