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Img_0139_normal tom Message Send private message
on May 07, 2008 - 1:12pm

Mike's Comp Un-Problems

Consensus is that two of Mike’s Coolness Comp problems which were all about displaying his e-grips were rated more stoutly than they really were in the rush to get things ready. “I don’t on-sight V3s” was a typical post comp comment. Or, “I’ve never climbed a V2 until I climbed this!”

A “V3” (starting under rope 12) was changed (3 holds were removed) to arguably make it a V3-lite.

A very fun “V2” (starting under rope 6) was redesigned (Mike’s challenging forced-cross-over move was apparently entirely avoidable). I figured out a way to use the e-grips a little differently and force the cross-over in the same place. The force results from a guaranteed-right-hand-only handhold that gets you to the next hold on the problem but magically turns into garbage for the big dyno that follows—making the dyno itself quite a challenge. This route started out really fun and, if anything, has become more fun! The V2 rating should hold up now.

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