Zac is the one who proved that the first crux move was possible, but (I thought, mistkenly) he never got around to finishing the problem. Zac’s feat encouraged me to finish setting the problem.

A bunch of tall-enough climbers have been tossed off that early crux move. One way of looking at it is “even if you don’t stick the move it is a safe move, and you’re doing a nice calisthenic warm up in falling from it”. Maybe you’ll actually surprise yourselves and stick it one of these days, and the truly amazing “campus” match on slopers will follow and lead you to the high foothold that propels you to the finish.

I agree. Once I hit the first sloper the problem became quite easier. I would say the two sloper campus part is the easiest of the three crux moves (1st sloper grab, 2 sloper campus and the finish reach). The finish move and the large reach being the hardest.

T-Rex Proof has been up for over a month and won’t be up for more than 2 more weeks—ample time to send it if you try. Mike and I have come pretty close to giving the beta. I’m going to come a little closer. If you want to climb it and don’t want any beta stop reading…

Crux #1: The Big Move. Forget about the nearer left sloper for now. You need to go for the higher right sloper first, and you’ll need to be tall enough to reach the sweet spot with your right hand while your right foot is on the right start hold. Just grab some good holds and measure yourself against these two point. If you have that length you can do this problem. Then hand match on the set-up sloper and just commit to a big powerful right hand move. If you fail 10 times give up on THAT move for the day and work on Crux #2… which sequences quickly into Crux #3.

Crux #2: The Sloper Match/Campus Move. After the right hand has its sloper the left hand goes for the outside (left side) of the other sloper. Note: most people give up on this problem because they shoot for the left sloper first (because it is closer), but a left move first is sure to fail. The match is not hard. And while it seems unlikely, these two slopers will support a no-feet “pull up” move to the high foothold—which is a LEFT foothold (which is the set up hold for the finish).

Crux #3: The Lean. If you have the length to do Crux #1 you have the length to do Crux #3. From the two slopers flag the right foot back to the right. Cock back away from the finish hold. Push off the flagged foot as you yank left on the left sloper… COMMIT, and LEAN INTO IT! The finish hold is there waiting for you. And, oh yes, the match at the finish is a bit tricky itself!

WORRRRDDDD! The green set up sloper has enough of an ever so slight incut that will allow you to pull yourself into the wall so your upwards momentum is in and straight up, not up and out. Also use friction on your shoes to pull yourself into the wall just as you explode upwards. With out this pull inwards you will most likely always pop off and out from the sloper.

Duuude!! I finished it the first day!

But really, I thought you had not linked it.

C’mon now Tom, give credit where credit is due…bro brahhh!

I must have had my back turned during Zac’s send, and he was too modest to make a big deal about it. But, give me a break, I did give the guy credit (above) for proving that the ridiculous theoretical crux move was humanly possible, yo!

Nice to see some guys getting close on this tonight!

I think I was there when Zac sent it that first day, it was pretty ridiculous.