I came across this
thread on rockclimbing.com. very interesting discussion. I have seen some crazily chalked-up routes at the Red River Gorge. I could totally see how non-climbers can get totally annoyed…
I can see both sides… it does spoil the natural beauty a little bit, but I also think it can be kind of cool looking. And I’m a heavy chalk user, so I can understand why it happens.
I’ve seen brown (and other colors) advertised, but I wonder whether it feels the same. Worth a shot I guess if it prevents people from complaining and keeps climbing areas open.
Maybe climbers should start washing routes and problems with water and a brush. One thing that makes an on-sight or flash easier is when there’s a lot of chalk on it. I appreciate it when I’m pumped and don’t know what to reach for next, but it messes me up when I’m on a route with no chalk on it and I’m used to seeing the good holds chalked.
Good point. But an overly chalked-up route can also make an on-sight harder. Case(s) in point: Beware the Bear (Muir Valley, RRG) and Crazy Fingers (Roadside, RRG). I think that these intermediate routes were made harder because everything that mildly resembles a hold is chalked up the wazoo. I guess I am just weak, and lack the endurance. but on my on-sight attempts, I had to feel for 3-4 holds on every move.
Hmm…come to think of it, if EVERY hold is chalk-up, then my argument falls on its face. Ok, i guess i am just weak. but you know what i mean…
Miguel makes a good point (finally). On Moonbeam and Sunshine, both of which are located at Military Wall in the RRG, every mono, two-finger, and full bucket hold is chalked; everything is chalked. It makes it harder to climb because the climber might think a chalked hold might be a bucket when in fact it’s a second position-two-finger-hold (pinkie & ring finger).
I agree with the guy who said that climbers should take the time to wash routes.
EVERY hold chalked is equivalent to NO hold being chalked. Never assume anything! If you climb in control you will be prepared to grab garbage when garbage is found, and you won’t fall. Of course, sometimes you just have to go for broke and hope for the best!
I can see both sides… it does spoil the natural beauty a little bit, but I also think it can be kind of cool looking. And I’m a heavy chalk user, so I can understand why it happens.
I’ve seen brown (and other colors) advertised, but I wonder whether it feels the same. Worth a shot I guess if it prevents people from complaining and keeps climbing areas open.