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Img_0139_normal tom Message Send private message
on Dec 28, 2007 - 9:39pm

New Holds from e-grips

Mike Wedding came by the gym (FFC-OT) with some new holds still warm from the lab in Colorado! Five pink ones and a big cherry red one. They came together in a V2/V3 problem called ‘Strawberry Daquari with a Cherry on Top’. Thanks Mike!

By the way I: Mike second-try flashed our 5.11d on rope 11! Dang! So, we made the bottom harder and downgraded it to 11c. That rope is flush now with hard routes!

By the way II. That 5.11b on rope 6 has seen a hold elimination midway up to encourage some too-tall climbers to do the crux move the way Todd meant it to be done!

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
5 Comment(s)
Dec 30, 2007 - 3:38pm

I saw that ‘Strawberry Daquari with a Cherry on Top’ problem went from a V1 to V4, then back down to V2/V3 within the span of 1 hour. Those holds to look sweet as hell. It’s one of those you can choose to pinch on the whole thing, or crimp on parts of the textured edges.

miguel is an admin of Place_holder_tiny Wigglyville
Img_0139_small tom
Dec 31, 2007 - 3:12am comment was edited onDec 31, 2007 - 10:08pm

Yeah, ratings are sometimes easy to change with a little turn of the hold. The V1 rating was just a wish when we were just staring at the holds on the ground. As the holds went up and into some sense of position V1 was becoming a fading memory. The move to the 4th hold brought things into some higher realm. I had a rough time trying to do a dropknee manuever on a hold the was 3/4” too high (for me to step up to, possibly due to my freakishly long arms), so I turned the hold so the edge I was stepping to was a smidgen lower, and that did the trick. V4 (or worse) became V2/V3. Mike suggested V3 after a few goes at the cross-over move which is definately not easy. And some folks are having trouble with the finish (like me).

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Jan 03, 2008 - 3:12am

Can’t wait to get back on this problem… All the moves are fun and the holds are so sticky, I love it.

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Jan 17, 2008 - 5:50pm

Glad to hear that people are digging the E-Grip holds…(Maybe you all should convince Tom to get set up with our First Dibs program here at E-Grips/Trango – a new set of holds every month!!!) Anyway, it was nice to get on the 5.11s at FP and set the Daquari problem. V1 was the original goal so we could get as many people trying out the new holds, but as usual, cool moves/sequences led to a stiffer rating. Still a good problem finishing on the red Papas Turtle.

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Img_0139_small tom
Jan 17, 2008 - 7:54pm

Mike, you should it! It just rains and rains good climbers under the Turtle!

btw, we ARE going to go with the First Dibs (e-grips hold buying program) as soon as I can get the club (not me) to pay for them.

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
 
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