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Chicago Athletic Club Climbers

 
Dsc_0300_normal rexgeraghty Message Send private message
on Feb 16, 2008 - 4:12pm

LVAC King Line!

There may be harder all-natural lines on the wall, but I have not found them yet. Starts underneath the second rope sitting down under the prow. Strain/scream/curse your but off the ground (I think much harder for shorter people). Traverse right along the thin seam to rope number 5 and go up the dihedral on features. Ends above the anchors at the top of the wall. I think the boulder problem goes at about V6 and the dihedral at 12c or d. Totally leadable, waiting for it’s FA!

6 Comment(s)
Feb 16, 2008 - 6:02pm

Heard that Sandy set a route at LVAC called “Queen Line” as well. (;

J

Feb 17, 2008 - 12:16am

She did, the dihedral with any feet. Sent it in good style (10+).

Feb 18, 2008 - 6:26am

Look forward to checking them out on our next visit there! I spent a good amount of time the other night becoming familiar with the features on the dihedral on the left side of the wall as I tried to work out a move on the red/green taped route. After several attempts I finally figured it out and have to say that was the best part..just figuring it out and having that “aha” moment.-S

Feb 18, 2008 - 6:44am

I am going to check it out this Thurs. Bringing a friend from out west to check out the crack :-)

miguel is an admin of Place_holder_tiny Wigglyville
Feb 23, 2008 - 5:14pm

Last Friday at LVAC, saw Keith climbing it, saw Roger trying it…saw myself zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzending it….then I woke up.

J

Feb 29, 2008 - 8:24am

KING LINE ALTERATION

Instead of cutting over to a stem on the pillar once you get through the arch, continue along the wall and go straight up rope 5. This effectively takes off a stem rest after the boulder problem, and extends the problem by about 5 moves, two of them very difficult.

Still awaiting its FA on lead!

 
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