Generally known as the best place to snorkel in the US, my first impression of Hanauma Bay was not too positive. I feel that the relatively high entrance fee, daily visitor volume limit control, and the mandatory short film are all very reasonable, since they are set in place to protect the environment. I am, however, pretty turned off by the following few things during my first visit:
1. It was VERY crowded. Especially in the middle of the bay, where there is a high concentration of coral reef. Every where I swam, there were at least 4 to 5 people within 5 feet of me
2. The coral reef in the center bay did not look very healthy…and you see people standing on the coral reef everywhere (despite numerous instructions against doing so in the mandatory film)
3. The fish was so used to being around swimmers that they don’t really avoid you. Well, I guess this is not a very bad thing, but personally, I thought that didn’t seem very natural…
Sounded like I didn’t have a good time huh? Well, after I talked to a few local friends about this experience, they showed me the real Hanauma Bay experience the next day (thanks Paul and Jon!)
It turns out that if you swim beyond the breakers (where the waves break in the picture above), it’s a different world! First of all, there’s hardly anyone. Secondly, you will see a LOT more fish, and a much wider variety. We saw a small school of flute fish, as well as moray eels. Thirdly, it’s deeper out there, so you feel less confined by the shallowness seen in most of the center bay. There are many ways to get out there, and it can get challenging. Be sure to talk to a lifeguard, and inquire about the best route according to wind and current conditions.
Oh, I almost forget to mention the sea turtles…we found 3 of them swimming at the right-end of the bay, and followed them for at least 20 min. They are such gracefully swimmers, and very fun to swim with. Just make sure you don’t touch them, as you can land yourself in jail doing that.
So, my initial negative assessment proved immature. After knowing which spots to hit, we went back another time and had a blast. I would definitely spend another morning at Hanauma Bay the next time I visit Oahu.
For gear, check out Snorkel Bob. They rent out decent quality snorkel, fins, and goggles at reasonable prices. I think we spent less than $80 renting 2 sets for one week (in 2005)
We kind of lucked out at the tiny cove next to Hapuna Beach on the big island. I’m not into the resort thing at all (that structure on the right is the Prince Hotel where we stayed for a few days), but that little cove had some of everything. Sea turtles every day, some nice reefs and all sorts of fish and eels. For being such a little cove, it was definitely filled with creatures.
I was actually crazy paranoid about sharks every time I went out, but I figured I was just being silly. Then, on our last day there they closed the beach because some tiger sharks had been there for a few days and going after people. I guess it’s good I didn’t find that out sooner. ;-)