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Jezebel_normal pete Message Send private message
on Nov 26, 2007 - 10:12pm

Scarpa Booster

I’ve had my Boosters for two weeks now and here are some initial thoughts:

-They’re very aggressive… I don’t think I’ve ever seen a more severely downturned shoe. This makes it powerful for toeing in overhangs, but awkward when landing after peeling off a boulder problem (not that that ever happens to me). This is definitely not a shoe you leave on for walking around the gym/crag, but it’s a nice tool to have if you need to climb at your limit.

-They’re soft… the inside of the shoe is really comfortable. It’s suede or something similar and despite being almost too tight to put on, it actually feels rather nice on my foot. It also hasn’t taken long at all to break in. It also seems like the softness causes me to use my foot muscles more than with a stiffer shoe… don’t know if that’s necessarily good or bad though. I think it gives me more sensitivity on little edges and foot chips.

-The quality seems good… my last pair (La Sportiva Venoms) wore completely through the toe in 5 months. That may have something to do with my footwork, but it was pretty disappointing none-the-less. If I’m climbing 2-3 times a week, mostly in gyms, I expect that a pair of shoes will last me 6+ months at which point they may only need a resoling. So far the Boosters seem to be high quality. The rubber around the toe box seems thick enough to take some abrasion and the construction seems built to last. Only time will tell of course.

Has anybody else tried these? Any suggestions for how to hit the ground and not break my feet when they’re velcroed tight into aggressive shoes? Any luck with certain brands for shoes that last a long time?

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
8 Comment(s)
Nov 27, 2007 - 6:04pm

I had a pair of scarpa (don’t remember the model, it’s from 3 years ago I think), and really liked the soft upper and sturdy sole. the fit was nice too, with probably the best heel box I’ve had (my heel is of the narrower varietal). The only complaint I have is with the rubber. I thought it was too soft, not too sticky, and seems to wear away pretty fast.

pete: do they have a nice new rubber on the Booster?

miguel is an admin of Place_holder_tiny Wigglyville
Nov 27, 2007 - 9:39pm

Not sure if the rubber is new or different from what was on yours, but it seems pretty sticky. Sticky enough to allow me to send the hardest rope route currently up at Fitplex last night :) (only 11a though)

I think I see what you mean about the heel fit. I must have a narrow heel as well and these are more snug than either of the previous pairs I’ve owned.

I’m fine with the sole rubber wearing quickly as long as I can still get them resoled and they don’t wear through the toe rand, rendering them useless. Time will tell.

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Nov 27, 2007 - 10:37pm

You should check out the La Sportiva Solutions too. They look pretty sick… only problem is they’re on the pricy side. But the Boosters aren’t cheap either.

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Mar 28, 2008 - 11:56pm

To answer some questions about Scarpa… They are essentially a totally different brand from 3 years ago now being seperate from Black Diamond. It is also my understanding that they have the 15 year veteran designer of La Sportiva on staff now (obviously not with La Sport. anymore) so the shoes are totally different and a lot more progressive than the olden day Scarpa. They also have a new rubber to answer Miguel’s question which is supposed to be comparable to the other rubbers in the industry. Word

Mar 31, 2008 - 6:41pm

Quick update to my review: I now have small holes in both the toes on these shoes. That makes it essentially 4 1/2 months of use and probably within 5 months they’ll be unusable. Do others go through shoes this fast? I feel like 5 months is quick, but maybe I just have to accept it.

I’d like to resole, which I know has been discussed in at least one other thread, but my holes happen above the sole, directly in front of my big toe. Can that be repaired? Is it a standard repair? Is it worth it?

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Apr 02, 2008 - 5:58pm comment was edited onMay 13, 2008 - 4:36am

i just got my pair of Sportiva’s resoled and “re-randed” for a total of $56. I am very happy with the job they did. The place is called “The Friction Fix” out of W. Virginia and had a pretty fast turn-around, a week and a half.

Img_0139_small tom
May 13, 2008 - 4:38am

Who sells these shoes?

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
May 13, 2008 - 10:06pm

I got my Boosters from Moosejaw although I don’t think they stock them regularly.

Also, I got them back from Madison’s East Side Shoe Repair last week and they are pretty much as good as new. New rand, new sole, $45… can’t complain at all. They took me about half an evening of bouldering to re-break-in, but I’m definitely resoling again in the future. One third the price of a new pair really cuts down on climbing costs.

pete is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
 
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