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Me_so_happy1_normal yani1shu Message Send private message
on Apr 09, 2008 - 4:39pm

Climbing Jackson Falls

So Joe and I are thinking of heading down to Jackson Falls at the end of the month. Neither of us have been there so i have a few questions. I know there are a group of you heading down there this weekend and i look forward to hearing what you have to say after your trip. After some quick reading on the interweb, it looks like all the routes down there are 5.9s and up. Anyone know if the rating scale at the Falls is comparable to that at RRG, meaning routes are usually easier than rated, at least compared to ratings at FFC? Are there good routes to be climbed rated at 5.9 – 5.10s down there? Any likes/dislikes, recommendations for a trip down South.

12 Comment(s)
Apr 10, 2008 - 4:32pm

ohh god. enough with how hard the rating scale is at fucking FFC. nobody buys it…

The climbing is good at Jackson Falls to answer your question. Just like any area some 9’s will be softer or harder than others and same goes for 10’s through 17’s. Fun is to be had for sure, don’t worry about it so much.

Apr 10, 2008 - 9:57pm

I think Yaniv was just trying to get a reference to what he knows, not tout any rating scales. The fact is that certain places are rated differently based on the people who set them and timeframe in which they are set, and I don’t think it unfair to ask for a reference to the place where you have learned to climb and continue to climb exclusively (perhaps).

Apr 11, 2008 - 4:41pm

I don’t understand that thinking, Dave. Why wouldn’t you just go and see for yourself? Climbing is climbing is climbing. Go and see it for yourself and quit worrying about FFC ratings v. the world.

Apr 11, 2008 - 6:06pm

to get back on the track of the OP’s topic, there will be plenty to test your mettle on. i’ve climbed a few 5.7’s and 5.8’s at Jackson too, so the lower end isn’t 5.9, in case that was a concern.

there are plenty of quality 5.9’s and 5.10’s to be had to just go and look at the various lines. find one you like and rope up! start out below your “max ability” to get a feel for the local grading and work your way up from there. if you’re concerned about getting to the top of everything, go to Home Depot and buy a few inexpensive steel bail links.

I’d recommend getting ahold of a 3rd edition copy of Vertical Heartland

check yourself for ticks at the end of the day. when packing up camp, check yourself and all of your camping gear to ensure the little buggers don’t hitch a ride to your home. watch out for copperhead snakes and brown recluse spiders too. bring nylon brushes to clean off moss, if necessary (no wire brushes!!)

NOTE: just like the RRG, most nearly all routes at Jackson Falls and Draper’s Bluff need to be led. There isn’t top-access like Devil’s Lake to set up topropes.

Apr 11, 2008 - 6:31pm

As hard as it is for most climbers(myself included)to not think about ratings, I’ve found that the most enjoyable climbing I have done is when we just went climbing and forgot about the ratings. We would just pick out a line or route that looked cool and just went for it. One way or another, climbing anywhere where the ratings may be a bit more stout than normal only makes you a better and more prepared climber. I would hate to be under the impression that I am a solid 5.12 (or whatever grade climber) because of soft gym ratings and then be in over my head when I got on something outside at that grade. Just have fun.

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Apr 11, 2008 - 6:38pm

This is the problem with the internet! I agree with Dave, but I can see how the OP post my be misconstrued by someone who doesn’t know Yaniv. But since he’s clearly just seeking advice for a trip to a new place, I think we should ease up and give people the benefit of the doubt around here.

lish444 is a staff member of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Apr 12, 2008 - 8:16am

I for one have a personal experience with Sweatpants, and everyone that reads his post should completely disregard it. I personally climbed at Fitplex 3 years ago and it was hard as f*%$. I was once bouldering a V7 with sweatpants in SoIL and he swore that it was a V4, so what the heck does he know. Also, right before he sent the problem, he said “Doug sucks” does anyone know what that means?

Apr 13, 2008 - 5:20pm

Now was it “Doug sucks”? Or “Doug’s and old fart”? Having a hard time recalling. Also don’t disregard my statement. Keith also sucks. That is all. Sweaty

Apr 16, 2008 - 6:24am

I would definitely recommend a route called ‘Group Therapy’ 10a/b. It’s a classic, and anyone who has ever been to the Falls would recommend it.

Sweaty, stop hurting people’s feelings. Don’t turn LargeSquare into a war zone.

Fitplex Rocks!

Apr 16, 2008 - 5:00pm

Seb’s to make it official… I hate you. Also anyone that wants my deleted post that was a piece of genius feel free to email me and I’ll send it to u. lol. Let me emphasize my hate for sebastian and keith at this point… I HATE YOU.

Have a nice day, Sweaty

Apr 16, 2008 - 7:14pm

I love you sweaty.

Apr 17, 2008 - 4:55am

alright you won me over sebs… sorry to be so rash

 
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