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on Mar 07, 2008 - 7:09am

The Rule of Starts and Finishes for Bouldering

Tags: Rules

Every gym has its protocol for climbing routes and problems. Here is ours (ffc’s) with regard to Bouldering Starts and Finishes:

The Rule of Starts is this: The starting handhold/handholds are yours; do with them what you will. But you may not touch any subsequent handholds until your body is completely off the ground. And the “send” requires a mando two-hand “controlled” finish.

These are the Rules as defined at fp/ffc. We state these Rules when asked. We try to be consistant in stating them. Instructors specifically announce them when we introduce Beginners to bouldering in their Week 6 intro to bouldering classes.

A more stringent set of Rules seems to circulate in some gyms and should not be applied to ours—unless you prefer to apply it personally. It goes something like this: Two-hold starts require one hand on each hold and all body parts off the ground before one may move on to higher handholds. One-hold starts required a hand-match start.

Disregard these more stringent rules at your pleasure. Adhere to these more stringent Rules at your peril. They impose a higher standard of conformity, and they restrict the natural creativity of the boulderer to find his/her way to climb.

The Official Rule that I have outline at the top of the page is one that I inherited from fp climbers 7 years ago and that I have always been able to work with. In allowing climbers to find their individual ways up problems it forces routesetters who want to force specific moves to be most alert and to think through every technique, angle and sequence imaginable before they put their name and a rating on a route.

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
4 Comment(s)
Mar 07, 2008 - 6:56pm

How about a mando “top out” and descent to signify the finish? Oh right…you might need to modify the wall there at Fitplex.

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Mar 07, 2008 - 8:34pm

I agree… when there are two starting handholds (one a crimper and the other a jug) you should be able to use the jug with both hands, or feet for that matter. Use the two holds how ever you like. When you are outside, why would you make using a crimper mandatory when there is a jug that is also “on” as a starting hold. As a route setter, if you want each hand on seperate holds then set the route so you cannot do it any other way. Force your climber into doing what you want, otherwise the smart climber will always take the path of least resistance. From here the reasonable rule is that you cannot move forward until you have removed yourself from the ground using whichever combo of starting handholds. A Soup Nazi- “you must do this first” mentality- is not really too realistic and prevents creativity.

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Img_0139_small tom
Mar 07, 2008 - 9:02pm comment was edited onMar 07, 2008 - 10:06pm

There may be a little (big?) Soup Nazi in every passionate routesetter. We want to create specific situations and moves that challenge climbers mentally (as well as physically) and bring climbers to a realization that there really is a best way to get from points A to points B… and that is to do the moves we want them to do… and because the moves are so cool they become better climbers in the process.

I can tell when some routesetter may be sitting at home pleased in the certainty that he or she is forcing climbers in the gym at that moment to do the most bizarro things! (MAX)

Speaking for myself, I also enjoy seeing good climbers defeat a routesetter’s designs with something novel or something buried so deep in the playbook that it never would have occured to the routesetter (me)! And it happens pretty frequently.

tom is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
Mar 07, 2008 - 10:54pm

WORRRRD!

MDUB is an admin of Img_0131_tiny FFC Climbers
 
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