Note 1: This post was edited on 4/25/08. Today’s update is for clarity and corrects an error in the total climbing time per category.

FFC—Old Town will be hosting a 3-category (Beg/Int/Adv), 5-style (Bouldering/Toprope/Mock-Lead/Lead/Coolness) open climbing comp on Sunday, April 27 sponsored Trango/PMI/e-Grips/Flashed Bouldering (all from Boulder, CO.) and Moosejaw. Time: 2:00pm-7:30pm. Open to the public.

Mike MDUB is coming all the way from Trango Holdings in Boulder. CO with prizes and giveaways. Fitness Formula is kicking in prizes, as well as Moosejaw Mountaineering.

ENTRANCE FEE WILL BE DIRT CHEAP: Any legitimate paid FFC-OT entrance fee PLUS $6 will get you in as a contestant. The $6 will go to the Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition which is doing a lot to facilitate, improve and maintain climber access to The Red. Got a 10-Pass? Use one pass plus kick in $6 and you are in! You’re a member? $6 and you are in! (Members may spectate for free.) In a class? Use one of those free visits + $6 and you’re in! There will be NO FREE ADMISSIONS (except for member spectators). Non-member spectators will be asked to pay the $6 donation fee. Anyone who comes to belay a competing friend will also be asked to pay the Climbing Wall fee and the $6 donation (so you belay slaves might as well compete).

CATEGORIES:

(1) Beginners would include anyone with Beginner class history. If you don’t have such a history it basically means you’ve been climbing for 6 weeks or less.

(2) Intermediates would include anyone with Intermediate class history. If you don’t have such a history it basically means you’ve been climbing for 6 weeks or more, but don’t have lead climbing skills or are not willing to try them out. Mock Leading (with an added dead rope) WILL be an option.

(3) Advanced would include anyone with Advanced class history or lead skills and a willingness to measure up.

COMP FORMAT:

Beginner Format – Toproping, Bouldering, Coolness

Intermediate Format – Toproping, Bouldering, optional Mock Leading, Coolness

Advanced Format – Toproping, Bouldering, some required Leading, Coolness

ROUTE MIX:

There will be a mix of old routes and new routes. New routes will be marked “NEW”. Recent/regular FFC climbers can only get on-sight bonus points for “NEW” routes. All routes/problems will be assigned a basic point value.

ROPE ROUTE VALUES:

5.5 = 1 points

5.6 = 2 points

5.7 = 3 points

5.8 = 5 points

5.9 = 8 points

5.9+ = 12 points

5.10a = 16 points

5.10b = 20 points

5.10c = 25 points

5.10d = 30 points

5.11a = 36 points

5.11b = 43 points

5.11c = 51 points

5.11d = 60 points

5.12a = 70 points

5.12b = 83 points

5.12c = 100 points

5.12d = 125 points

ROPE ROUTE BONUS POINTS:

On-sight climbs will be worth double “face” value. (example: 5.8 on-sight = 5×2 = 10)

On-sight Mock Leads will be worth triple “face” value. (example: 5.8 on-sight mock lead = 5×3 = 15)

2nd or 3rd effort Mock Leads will be worth double “face” value. (example: 5.8 mock lead on second attempt = 5×2 = 10)

On-sight Leads will be worth quadruple “face” value. (example: 5.8 on-sight lead = 5×4 = 20)

2nd or 3rd effort Leads will be worth triple “face” value. (example: 5.8 lead on second attempt = 5×3 = 20)

“On-sight” will be defined as “Any send on your first attempt—so it will include “flashes” (first attempt sends that may have benefitted from watching others climb a route).

BOULDER PROBLEM VALUES:

“Bunny” = 3 pts

V0- = 5 pts

V0 = 8 to 12 pts

V0+ = 16 to 20 pts

V1 = 25 to 30 pts

V2 = 36 to 43 pts

V3 = 51 to 60 pts

V4 = 70 to 83 pts

V5 = 100 to 125 pts

V6 = 150 to 175 pts

V7 = 200 pts

BOULDERING BONUS POINTS:

“On-sight” boulder problem (see conversion chart below) will be worth double “face” value. (example: V0 = 20 to 24)

“On-sight” will be defined as “Any send on your first attempt—so it will include “flashes” (first attempt sends that may have benefitted from watching others climb a route).

9 PRIZES WILL BE AWARDED, 3 IN EACH CATEGORY:

highest scoring male Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced

highest scoring female Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced

coolest scoring Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced

COMP SCHEDULE:

2:00-3:00 Staging (entrance, gathering, stretching, and final route taping)

3:00-4:30 Beginners Climb

4:30-6:00 Intermediates Climb

6:00-7:30 Advanced Climb

BASIC RULES:

Climbers get three shots at any route/problem.

“on-sights” will include bonus points.

Mock Leads will include bonus points.

Leads will include bigger bonus points.

After three shots climbers must move along and let others have at it.

Total points accumulated in 75 minutes is your category score.

Coolness challenges will take up the last 15 minutes.

Highest scores (male and female) in each category win.

Highest “coolness” score in each category also wins.

ADVANCE RESERVATION: contact me (tom) by PM (Private Message).

-tom